Koh Phi Phi – Falling in love with life on a tropical island paradise

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When thinking of the islands of Thailand Koh Phi Phi may be known for its parties and nightlife but there is so much more. After living life on this gorgeous island – I am in love!

by Jessica Dale
Reading Time: 14 minutes

Koh Phi Phi in a nutshell [2022]

Koh Phi Phi also know as Phi Phi Don is one of the smaller islands of Thailand but the largest of the 6 islands that make up the group known as the Phi Phi islands. Located in the Andaman Sea approximately 43km (26.7 miles) off the coast of Krabi in southern Thailand. It is only accessible by ferry which takes 1-2 hours to reach. Be sure to read my ultimate guide detailing the various ways to get to Koh Phi Phi. Koh Phi Phi is a small island with the majority of its offerings located in the short stretch between Tonsai beach and Loh Dalum beach.

The island enjoys plenty of sun and high temperatures year round, the lush greenary comes at the cost of a good amount of rainfall but this is usually heaviest between July and September which is the islands monsoon season so it may be best to avoid visiting at those times, nobody likes to visit somewhere to experience constant rain for weeks on end.

There are no roads on Koh Phi Phi, instead pathways are essential to get from one place to another by foot, this also means the only traffic you need to worry about is the odd scooter. You do get a number of people carrying bags on wheelable trollies so rememeber to listen out for the familiar “beep beep”, a simple move to the side to let them pass is all that is needed.

Boasting cheap accomodation and very reasonable prices Koh Phi Phi should be on your radar as a place to visit. From my experience A lot of people only tend to stay for 2-6 days however I would definitely say that if you want to see everything and can afford the time it is worth staying just that little bit longer. In this article I will detail what and where is worth visiting and why.

Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Longtail boat
Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: A starry night
Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Longtail boat at sunset

First arrival on Koh Phi Phi

When you first arrive at Koh Phi Phi sadly the first thing that you tend to notice is the McDonalds and Burger King, this may be news to your ears however for me it is a shame to see the tide of capitalism reach this beautiful paradise island but that is just this womens opinion. As you walk down the pier you see a number of hotel representatives so keep an eye out if you have pre-booked your hotel for somebody holding a sign with the name, these are usually the people sent to collect your bags however not every hotel offers this service.

Nightlife

OK so lets start with the obvious – Koh Phi Phi has some great nightlife for sure, it doesn’t earn that reputation for nothing but after living there for months at a time I can honestly say Koh Phi Phi has a little bit of something for everyone, if you like to party it definitely accommodates perfectly with its many beach bars and clubs located on Loh Dalum beach. But for those of us that like a bit of piece and quiet I would suggest heading to the side of Ton Sai beach – here you will find plenty of quiet escapes where there are far fewer people and less crowded spaces.

Fire Shows

Dotted around the beaches after dark you will no doubt come across a fire show, these locals are very talented and can usually draw in a great crowd. Sit and watch in amazement as they twirl firesticks, poi and shoot flames 25 foot into the air. This is a routine every night and they are great at it. The shows are usually free with only a small voluntery contribution at night. Fireshows are a great way to sit, relax and be dazzled for hours over a cheeky drink or two. If you’re feeling brave you can even participate a little. The main shows can be found outside Slinkies bar and Stonez bar on Loh Dalum beach. The is also one at Carlitos bar just off Tonsai beach.

Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Fireshow
Clubs & Dancing

If you like a good dance whilst consuming your body weight in cheap booze often from a bucket then on Loh Dalum beach you will find a variety of beachside clubs. For a wild night try Slinkies, good deals on buckets, a rodeo bull and plenty of good music to get you on your feet. Further down the beach you will find Stonez bar, some of the music can be a little dated at times but the drinks prices and cheap UV face paint station really brings it into its own. Stonez bar also takes full advantage of the beach which is a great stage for large groups of people, you will be sure to have space to dance whilst maintaining a connection to the group.

Next to Stonez bar you will find Blanco bar, this bar is definitely the smaller of the ones previously mentioned, the music is pretty good with some classic British bangers coming through the speakers.

Every other day there is a pool party at Ibiza Pool Party, a beach club style venue located on the beach with some of the best pool parties I have ever been to on this side of Asia, beer pong and a great DJ make this pool party a must attend. It can get a little crowded but honestly after a couple of buckets you don’t really care!

On the other side of the town next to Tonsai beach head down and away from the pier, eventually you will come to a bar I found to be a little more varied than the others – Carlito’s offers not only a fireshow around 10pm (although I am sure times vary slightly depending on time of year) but also live music and banging tunes. Carlito’s offers a wide variety but it should be noted the drinks are pretty expensive in comparison to the others.

Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Beach night club
Stonez bar on Loh Dalum beach

Finally I come to the last two bars worth mentioning in this category, the backpacker bar and Rolling Stone bar. These two bars could not really be more different in terms of music. The Rolling Stone offers good music of the Rock genre, a snooker style pool table, live music and karaoke. They also have great deals on drinks if you enjoy shots. The Backpacker is a very different vibe – Loud pop music, beer pong and plenty of deals aimed to get you drunk. It is probably one of the most popular bars on the island and it is clear to see why although the target audience is definitely aimed at the younger audience. Both the Rolling Stone and the Backpacker are on the same row seperated only by a phenominal indian restaurant but I will get onto that shortly.

Bars & Quieter Places

Sometimes we prefer just a quiet drink without anything too crazy and for a nice drink with the locals I cannot recommend Relax bar enough! Located near the main entrance to Loh Dalum beach and up some stairs this bar is also run by the owners of the Pirate Boat Tour (Check out my article on the best activities to do in Phi Phi here), Relax bar is where the many of the locals, expats and divers meet to shoot a bit of pool and as the name suggests – Relax at the end of the day. I found most of my time was spent here on nights out. Onto the beach is another one of my personal favourites – Freedom bar, a little quieter than the others but definitely a nicer vibe, the beautiful multicolor lights strewn across the trees really amp up the atmosphere.

If it is live music and a bit of food you’re after definitely check out Rosyinom, just down from Tonsai Pier this small restaurant has the best acoustic live music and is again another local favourite, the owner is lovely and the atmosphere is just calming through and through – As a bonus their food is divine! For a really nice environment I would also recommend Dojo bar, this is a little down the way from Carlitos on the Tonsai side of the town and offers beer on draught which is a nice commodity on the island, a lot of places only have bottles so Dojo offers a taste of the west in that respect.

In the centre of the main town area you will see a couple of my favourites, one is the Sports Bar and do probably the best and cheapest cocktails I have ever had! I am not much into sports but I can definitely get behind great, cheap cocktails – their pina colada is to die for! The other bar is the Dubliner irish bar, another bar that offers a free pool table, cheap(ish) drinks and friendly staff, there is always some sport shown on the plethora of TVs dotted around the bar and the toilet behind a hidden book shelf is a nice touch. The music at times does get a little loud.

To catch the sunset be sure to head to The Only Bar – Phi Phi, it is a little way to walk but should definitely be on your list of places to go, offering panoramic views of Loh Dalum bay it is simply the best place to go to see the sun bid farewell for the day. After this if you are looking for something a little more unique head back into the town and check out the Muy Thai Boxing bar, this is just opposite the Dubliner and you can often see tourists battling it out in the ring, the drinks are a little bit expensive but there is no cover charge so if you are into a bit of fighting this bar will not dissapoint. You will often see 20 something year old guys walking around Phi Phi sporting the belts they have won in this bar, it’s really quite amusing to watch.

Catch a burger at sunset with a view at The Only Bar- Phi Phi

Shops & Town

The majority of shops, restaurants, massage parlors and bars are between the two beaches in a small town style setting. There are rows and rows of small stores and stalls each with their own unique charm and a wide variety of offerings. The shops on the main island of Koh Phi Phi Don are mostly local and offer a good variety of items:

Clothing

As you walk around the island you do tend to notice a pattern in the variety of clothing on offer as a lot of the vendors do tend to stock similar items but if you look closely you do find the odd unique gem. The one thing I will say with clothing is to check the quality before purchasing, items range widely in terms of quality. I have personally seen both sides of the spectrum regarding clothing quality on this island. Some is of a really good build quality but some I found have the thickness and integrity of toilet paper so please be sure to check.

Jewellery

Whilst you’re unlikely to come across any platinum or diamond items here there are some really cute pieces that still look lovely, as you can probably imagine there are a lot of string and woven bracelets and anklets, the earrings, rings and metallic items are also really lovely but just remember that like most cheap metal jewellery, the shine eventually will wear but for your stay you can pick up a bargain.

Souvenirs

Like any tourist destination you will of course find plenty of souvenirs and trinkets – everything from Thailand mugs to glassware, keyrings, postcards and pretty much anything you can imagine “Phi Phi” or “Thailand” can be printed on. These are perfect little reminders of your trip if you are a tourist, they are usually cheap and varying in quality.

Art

When walking around you are likely to see a couple of local artists, their works feature in some of the local eateries and are of a very high quality. Usually very colourful and featuring animals, these works you can actually see being painted and are astonishing to witness. I found the art in Phi Phi to be beautfil and if I ever decide to settle down would certainly go back for a comission peice.

Cannabis

Since it’s “legalisation” in Thailand this year, you now see that cannabis is for sale in some aspect pretty much everywhere. Note I say “legalisation” – this is because its full legality in Thailand is a little complicated, I explain in detail in my Cannabis – The Thailand Legality article here but essentially you are OK to buy cannabis, just be careful where and who you smoke around. That been said there are a large amount of vendors selling it as a sideproduct which is interesting to go to a bar and be able to buy a joint to go with your beer. The recent legislation turn around on cannabis is certainly making a difference to the local people and boosting local economy.

Accommodation

Accommodation on Koh Phi Phi ranges wildly and really does come down to budget, there are some hidden gems for a relatively good price and there are always places available at a ridiculously low price at times but let’s face it – most of the time the term “You get what you pay for” certainly applies here. Sure a THB 3,000 ($83 / €80 / £70) a month room sounds nice in low season but for that price, it is a windowless box with a fan if you’re lucky. In my opinion it is better to spend the extra baht but if budget is your no.1 priority then Koh Phi Phi certainly accommodates.

Most of the accommodation you will find near the town area of the island and depending on the time of year a night in a standard hotel room with air conditioning can range anywhere from THB 500 – 20,000+ in high season and THB 250 – 15,000+ in low season.

Check out our currency conversion tool here for the latest conversion rates

Food

Food! Isn’t it great? As well as having some fantastic Thai options Koh Phi Phi probably has the widest variety for food I have ever seen and after eating out evey day pretty much every meal has been consistantly amazing! In most cases much better than I have had in the west.
Because of the tourism Koh Phi Phi attracts you will see a lot of restaurants and after trying a large selection of them the hardest decision was amazing food I wanted that day. Check out our Koh Phi Phi – Best Food Guide for a breakdown into each cusine along with full recommendations.

Koh Phi Phi offers a wide variety of culinary delights, let’s face it, we are driven by food and here are just a few of the varied selections available.
Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Pork in chili
Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Steak
From succulent steak to sweet chilli roasted pork to Mac N Cheese Carbonara, there really is something here for everyone and this writer can honestly say that she only had just the one poor meal in months!
Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Macaroni cheese

From the delightful snack stalls that populate a lot of the paths of Koh Phi Phi offering simple treats like Roti and pizza slices to the larger restaurants with menus that resemble a medium size book I can pretty much guarantee Koh Phi Phi will not dissapoint. Standout venues for me would be:

  • Patcharee French Bakery: Located just down from the pier where the prices are not unreasonable considering the portions and quality of food. Fodo types include Thai, Italian, French, Breakfast and various random western dishes. Closing time is usually 5PM
  • Mamas: At the bottom of the steps to Viewpoint 1 is a very small restaurant that offers some of the best Thai food at a fantastic price, the owners are so friendly and the whole venue emits a homely, traditional vibe. I can not in all honestly say anything negative about this place. Open 9am – 9pm
  • Annas: A welcoming restaurant with a host of friendly staff which can be found around the corner from the pier. Offering a good range of foods including German, British and Thai. Their steak is to die for and coming from the UK I honestly was delighted to have a taste of home with sausages, mashed potato and gravy. Open till 10pm daily
  • Rosyinom: Just down from the pier is a cute restaurant serving predominantly Thai food. Best time to visit at night as their is usually live music and their food is absolutely amazing especially if you like spicy food as their thai dishes can be made to pretty much every level of spice required and still be delicious. Would defintely recommend their smash burger and they were branching out into Taco Tuesdays. Open till late

Nature

Koh Phi Phi town has a lot of venues to satsify a lot of people but from my experience I find it is easy for people to stay around the town and rarely explore further afield. Phi Phi has an amazing natural landscape once away from the town. Take a stroll down Viking Beach and beyond – You come across a side of Phi Phi that is much more relaxed and quiet.

The beauty of Koh Phi Phi is that it is small enough to walk across in a couple of hours right through to the other side where you come to Phi Phi village – A much smaller settlement that definitely feels more like traditional thailand. The walk to the village is of a medium difficulty so remember to take plenty of water. The journey is an experience that is simply fantastic, little paths widing through the jungle – we stumbled across a cool buddhist type statue on route and saw some luscious scenery timing the return trip via the viewpoints where we could even see the milky way galaxy!

Surrounding areas

If we consider Koh Phi Phi Don is the main island there several small islands that surround it. Koh Phi Phi Lee is the next largest island next to Phi Phi Don, it does not have any hotels or inhabitants but is easily reachable via boat. Home to Pi Leh Bay, Viking Cave and the infamous Maya Bay this tiny island is a sure stop on the travels and visited every year by thousands and thousands. There is a good reason for this – Pi Leh Bay offers a secluded place to kayak and swim, sheltered from the main sea and beautiful in nature. Just outside of the bay offers some beautiful spots to snorkel and dive with a wide range of tropical fish and sea life to observe.

Viking Cave tells a fantastic story of the islands history, learn about the origins of birds nest soup and why there are canes reaching all the way to the top of the cliffs next to this intriguing landmark, sadly you cannot enter the cave but even from the outside it is an intriguing place to observe and consider the events that took place. For those of you similar to myself that are SCUBA divers the waters around this entire area usually offer great visibility and sealife that we sometimes dream about. I write more about this in my SCUBA review of Koh Phi Phi detailing my experiences under the waves in this area.

Maya Bay is probably the jewel of the crown that is Koh Phi Phi, originally a filming location for the iconic film – The Beach, tourists flock to this beautiful detination to witness the stunning blue waters and clean white sand that makes this location the perfect vision of a beach paradise. If you are lucky you will spot a baby shark in the waters here but sadly you cannot swim in the sea here. The downside of tourism is it can have an impact on the surrounding environment and this affected the presence of reef sharks in this area, the coral was being damaged and overal the habitat for animals was impacted in such a way the Thai authorities imposed restrictions on this landmark.

The rest of the islands of this group consist of Koh Bida Nok, Koh Bida Nai, Koh Phai (Bamboo Island), and Koh Young (Mosquito Island). Bamboo Island is absolutely tiny but the only other island in which you can easily stand on, it is a common stop on the boat tours and has a seating area. Bamboo Island for me was simply amazing and for those that love the quiet and catching some rays be sure to check this out.

Koh Phi phi - A tropical island paradise: Pi Leh Bay
An aerial view of Pi Leh Bay and the waters around Viking Cave

Conclusion

Koh Phi Phi has seen massive development in recent years, from the tsunami of 2004 it has been rebuilt stronger than ever offering a huge variety of things to do. Whilst it does get rather busy in the high season (December-February) there are plenty of places to escape the crowds. The strong amount of tourism here is the reason there is so much variety in cuisine and activities seen here. It has a little something for everyone which is what makes me fall in love with this tiny yet alive island in the Andaman sea.

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